There’s no crystal ball predicting the future, but the past two years have brought significant changes to the fashion industry. Since 2017, fashion has undergone numerous transitions: from the logo-mania and maximalism championed by Alessandro Michele’s Gucci and Demna’s Balenciaga to the rise of loungewear during the pandemic and the influence of TikTok; from the Y2K comeback that inspired every creative director to the core-mania microtrends, including Barbie-core, which shaped entire fashion seasons. Normcore and quiet luxury brands like The Row have secured their positions, while chic-ugly brands like Miu Miu and Loewe continue to thrive. After nearly eight years of such transformations, who are the true innovators? Who is guiding the future of fashion? The quick answer is: everyone and no one at the same time.

Currently, there is an economic and political crisis looming. In the Western world where we still see fashion shows in each of the four capitals, many find themselves in a position of unprecedented privilege that we hope will endure. In terms of growth and forward-thinking, two key factors will determine which brands are future-ready: sustainable technology and cultural innovation.

One movement that has emerged recently is the rise of “cult brands.” When you cultivate a cult following, you engage people who are drawn to what you stand for—and, naturally, they buy from you. This could be a point of view, a lifestyle, or even a specific way of dressing.

Issey Miyake, for instance, has made an indelible mark on the fashion world with his philosophy: “Clothes should reflect the specific needs of people and their culture, not just the whims of the fashion elite.” Today, this philosophy resonates deeply with the new generation. Although Miyake has been influential since the 1980s, representing not just Japanese fashion but also the power of clothing innovation, his forward-looking philosophy is more relevant than ever. Viewing clothing beyond a traditional “fashion” lens is crucial for sustainability today. From a creative direction perspective, a future-ready brand must have a clear concept. In recent years, it seems the world has become so distracted by historical events that we’ve lost sight of the true “essence” of clothing. This is evident in Shein’s sales growth! We’ve been so focused on fitting in and adapting to new micro-trends that we’ve forgotten the meaning behind dressing up each morning: freedom, personal expression, and simplicity—values that continue to resonate in Miyake’s ethos even today under Satoshi Kondo.

Miyake’s contributions to high-tech fabrics also inspire many aspiring designers. Textile technology plays a vital role in modern fashion, as seen in other brands like Maison Margiela. However, Miyake was unique in using synthetic fabrics sustainably and creatively, particularly through his Pleats Please line. Mass production has never been part of the house's DNA. In the late 1990s, Miyake introduced APOC (A Piece of Cloth), allowing garments to be produced without machine-sewn seams, thereby minimizing textile waste and respecting material integrity. The brand also continually experiments with natural fabric creation through techniques such as draping, pleating, dyeing, and boiling, while reviving ancient crafts, like paper clothing, in a contemporary context.

Regardless of whether you follow the brand, Issey Miyake stands as a remarkable example of a future-ready fashion label. Their approach contrasts sharply with the waste generated by mass production. From a history of avant-garde innovation to a future-ready powerhouse, Issey Miyake has left a significant legacy in fashion history.

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