Gucci Without a Creative Director: A Symbol of Resilience or Uncertainty?

Image Credit: Vogue Runway; Photographed by Acielle StyleDuMonde

Gucci showcased its Fall/Winter 2025 collection without a creative director, marking a first for the brand. Even during previous transitions, we always saw a final bow from the departing creative director. The circumstances surrounding why Sabato De Sarno didn’t have this moment remain a pressing question in the industry, especially since the announcement of his departure came just 20 days before the show. Likewise, the decision by Kering to proceed with a Gucci runway show at Milan Fashion Week without a creative director is puzzling, as this is unprecedented. In contrast, Bottega Veneta, also under Kering, opted for a cultural event instead of a runway show as the industry awaits Louise Trotter’s debut, announced last December. It seems Kering had to choose which brand to keep on the calendar with a runway presentation for visibility.

The moment the entire atelier walked out at the end of the show felt wholesome, yet it was impossible not to feel sympathy for them. However, it is now evident that Gucci is an insatiable machine, capable of producing and presenting a beautiful collection even in the absence of a creative director—if that was indeed the message they intended to send. Highlighting the artistic talent behind such massive operations is undoubtedly one of the most admirable aspects of the fashion industry.

Recently, rumors have surfaced that a significant portion of Gucci’s team in Florence is currently under “cassa integrazione,” meaning they are part of a government-managed short-term work scheme. This system provides income support to employees when companies temporarily reduce work hours or suspend operations due to economic challenges. It essentially supplements workers' wages to prevent permanent layoffs until conditions improve. To be clear, many companies in Italy used this scheme, especially during COVID-19. Following Gucci’s reported 24% revenue drop, these rumors do not come as a surprise. The brand is undoubtedly facing one of its biggest slowdowns in decades, struggling to regain its once-unshakable appeal.

Gucci’s history is one of both triumph and turmoil—an ongoing narrative of success and resilience intertwined with family disputes, financial mismanagement, and internal turbulence that seems to haunt the company even today. What is happening now bears a striking resemblance to the struggles of the early 1990s. The difference? This time, Gucci has Kering’s financial backing. Still, one must wonder—shouldn’t it be time for Gucci to confront its own demons?

I like to think of fashion brands as personalities, and to me, Gucci resembles a 104-year-old immortal with ADHD, deep insecurities, and unresolved family trauma. No creative director has ever fully embraced the brand’s history from its darkest angles. Sabato De Sarno’s vision for Gucci felt like a jingle—akin to a Coca-Cola family gathering, celebrating "ancora" one more time. It was evident from the beginning that his approach lacked a deep connection to the brand’s reality, making it unsustainable in the long run. This is surprising, given his immense talent and steady career in the industry. But creative direction cannot simply be about making things "elegant" or "fancy."

Gucci has long been the embodiment of the bourgeois side of Italian fashion, particularly in the ’60s and ’70s. However, that glamorous lifestyle was born amid some of the darkest family disputes and crime scenes in fashion history. Finding a creative director who dares to embrace that raw, complex narrative could be a game-changer. Today’s world is oversaturated with fake news, fake personas, fake information, and curated lifestyles. If Gucci were to finally acknowledge and own its true history—not just the glossy side but the messy, dramatic, and deeply human aspects—it could resonate profoundly with a modern audience.

This generation craves authenticity. They appreciate fashion when it is served raw, because they, too, have faced turbulence. Rebranding Gucci from within—without leaning on past creative directors like Tom Ford and Alessandro Michele, despite their brilliance—would be one of the most radical and magical shifts the brand could make. Perhaps it’s time for Gucci to stop running from its past and, instead, redefine itself by embracing the very history that shaped it.