Kiko Kostadinov’s FW25 SHOWS HIS PERSONAL VERSION OF THE MEANING OF AVANT-GARDE
Image credit: Kiko Kostadinov
Kiko Kostadinov is pushing boundaries, and in the best way possible. With his latest FW25 menswear show, he’s crafted an atmosphere that feels almost cinematic in its intensity. Imagine walking through a dark, autumnal forest, surrounded by dry leaves crunching beneath your feet, the air crisp and cold—so cold, in fact, that it looks like the models had spent the night outdoors in frigid conditions before making their way down the runway. The only thing missing here was the fog—just imagine how it would’ve added to this ethereal gritty mood. But perhaps it’s not the fog we need to focus on; what matters is the intensity of the show itself. Kostadinov has fully committed to a visceral, raw vision, and the result is nothing short of magnetic.
Kostadinov has long been known for blending the practical with the avant-garde, and this collection takes that philosophy to infinity. The inspiration behind the designs? A poignant and raw portrayal of Eastern European cold-weather survival. According to Kostadinov, the collection is meant to reflect the way people living in harsh conditions bundle up for warmth. It's a brilliant representation of how necessity informs fashion—longer pants layered over shorter ones, mismatched pieces thrown together because survival takes priority over style, gloves found on the side of the road…
Image credit: Kiko Kostadinov
But, here's where Kostadinov proves his genius: despite the rawness of the inspiration, the collection still exudes refinement. The layering and deconstructed elements, which might otherwise feel ragged, are expertly styled and tailored in a way that feels deliberate and elevated. There’s an organic sense of practicality to these designs, as if each garment has been crafted with purpose—not just for aesthetic, but for survival in a harsh, unforgiving climate.
And let’s talk about the boots. Kiko Kostadinov’s collaboration with Asics is set to break the internet—these new tabi boots are going to be everywhere. The bold design makes an unmistakable statement: they’re a perfect example of Kostadinov’s talent for reworking functional, utilitarian elements into something that feels both daring and deeply desirable. The boots take on an almost sculptural form, blending tradition with innovation in a way that only Kiko can.
Stylistically, it’s clear that Kostadinov is solidifying his place as one of fashion's most forward-thinking avant-garde designers. While his work undeniably carries the influences of legends like Junya Watanabe, Yohji Yamamoto, and Rick Owens, there’s a vivid, almost joyful splash of color that makes Kiko’s interpretation entirely his own. His work doesn’t shy away from a palette of shades that stand out in the often-muted world of high fashion, giving his avant-garde sensibility a fresh and compelling edge.
What truly sets Kiko Kostadinov apart is his ability to blend utility with artistry. His take on functional design feels like a masterclass in modernism, with each piece serving a dual purpose: as both a statement of fashion and a commentary on how clothing can be reinterpreted for practical use. And as his collections evolve, so does his reputation as one of the most innovative designers working today.
Kiko Kostadinov’s FW25 show was dark depiction of a beautiful world where fashion and function are seamlessly intertwined, where survival meets high style, and where avant-garde ideas continue to push the envelope in ways that only he can deliver. If there’s one thing to take away from this show, it’s that Kostadinov is not just keeping up with fashion’s future—he’s creating his own legacy.